The Fear Factor
Surrounded by jungle I wake on my boat to the sound of Howler monkeys
and I’m scared. Not because I’m in Panama but because I am now
committed to go through the canal into the Pacific.
I have an agent, I have a date, it’s three weeks away.
Once I’m through the next stop will be the Marquesas,
4000 miles away and about 6 weeks at sea.
It will be the longest passage I’ve done on a boat of my own and it’s daunting.
How many gallons of water do I need to carry?
How much food, how many paper towels, how much diesel,
how much sunscreen?
My journey here started from Brooklyn New York (well Sydney Nova Scotia
if you count the previous year.)
I left the boat up on the hard in Norfolk Virginia for a few months to wait
out the Hurricane season then rounded Cape Hatteras, nicknamed the
graveyard of the Atlantic for good reason, crossed the gulf stream off
Beaufort North Carolina and sailed direct to San Salvador in the Bahamas
tying up in a swell prone untenable marina, the only sailboat there during my
two week stay.Joined by a friend with very little sailing experience I was
lucky to have him for the next leg to Jamaica because I broke my hand
when a wave washed me across the cockpit as we were sailing in the night
through the windward passage between Cuba and Haiti.
An accomplished race sailor came with me for the trip across the Caribbean
to the San Blas Islands, home of the Guna Yala people (pronounced Kuna.)
The Guna Yala have managed to protect their unique culture and still travel
inter island in and trade from dugout canoes.
Invited to several villages to celebrate their independence anniversary
from Panama I got absolutely san blasted drunk on their down it in one go
half a coconut bowl sized dark brown concoction of coffee, sugarcane, and
wine and fell in a ditch trying to get into my dinghy.
The next morning I had a huge black eye and a big cut down my shin.
It had been in fact my third blackout of that day. The first two were induced
by a neck choke from my young Canadian friend Adam when we were comparing
my martial art and his wrestling skills.
I’d met Adam in Jamaica where he’d sailed his 26 foot boat in to moor next
to mine, the two smallest boats in the Marina.
We then buddy boated toward San Blas in sight of each other for about
three of five days. We’d both been very apprehensive about
crossing the Caribbean.
It can be kick ass with mountainous seas built by the strong trade winds
and counter currents. As it turned out the trip was fast and exhilarating.
I started this piece by saying I’m scared about crossing the Pacific.
Fair to say I was scared too about rounding Hatteras, crossing the Gulf stream,
crossing the Caribbean and entering a strange harbor, especially at night.
They each have their horror stories.
I also have added anxiety when I untie the lines now because each mile is
taking me further away from my family.
I’m scared a lot of the time when I’m sailing, worrying what might go wrong,
what might break, what shortcoming might surface in my ability to cope.
That may be part of why I do it.
I’m afraid of being a coward.



Single handed sailor. Jamaica.
Guna Yala. San Blas Islands
Howler monkeys. Panama

